Most archers tune in the wrong order. They start with paper. They end with broadheads. In between they chase symptoms with rest moves and never touch the things that actually matter.
Here's the order that works. Every step depends on the one before. Skip a step and the next three lie to you.
Step 1: Pre-Flight
Before you touch anything: confirm spec.
- Measure ATA (axle to axle). Should be within 1/8" of spec.
- Measure brace height. Within 1/8" of spec.
- Check peep height. Should be at anchor without head movement.
- Check d-loop. Centered on the string, no twist.
If any spec is off, fix it before you tune. An off-spec ATA means your cables are wrong, which means everything downstream is built on wrong numbers.
Step 2: Grip
Find a consistent grip and lock it in. Same hand position, same pressure point, every shot. If your grip changes, every other tuning step is poisoned.
This is form, not equipment. But it has to be solid before equipment tuning means anything. See the target panic post for grip drills.
Step 3: Cam Timing
Both cams at the wall at the same instant. This is the most important mechanical step. See the cam timing post.
Out of time = vertical kick on every arrow. No amount of rest tuning fixes it. Fix timing before you move forward.
Step 4: Tiller
Measure tiller (distance from limb to string at the cam axle, top and bottom). Should be equal or within 1/8". Adjust limb bolts as needed.
Unequal tiller throws nock travel off and creates persistent tail-high or tail-low tears.
Step 5: Center Shot
Set the rest so the arrow points down the riser centerline. Use a laser or a bow square.
This is the starting point for the rest. Everything left-right is referenced from here. If center shot is off, walk-back tuning lies.
Step 6: Nocking Point
Set nocking point 1/8 to 1/4 high of square (perpendicular to the rest plane). Use a level on the rest and a square on the string.
Nock height controls vertical arrow flight. Wrong nock height = tail high or tail low tear that won't go away.
Step 7: Rest Height and Plane
Set rest height so the arrow sits parallel to a level when on the rest. Check the launcher arms are level (not canted).
Drop-aways: check timing. The rest should drop only after the arrow has cleared. Premature drop = vane contact.
Step 8: Paper Tune (Verification 1)
Now you shoot paper. See the paper tune post.
If you've done steps 1-7 right, your paper tear is small. Adjust the rest in 1/64" increments if needed. If your tear is large, go back upstream — something is wrong above this step.
Step 9: Bareshaft Tune
Shoot bareshafts (no fletchings) and fletched arrows together at 20 yards. They should impact in the same place.
Bareshaft left of fletched (RH) = weak spine or grip torque. Right of fletched = stiff spine. Bareshaft high or low = nock point issue.
Bareshafts tell the truth that paper hides. If your paper is clean but your bareshafts are 3" off your fletched, your tune isn't really tuned. Fix the spine or rest issue.
Step 10: Nock Tune
Rotate the nock 1/8 turn at a time and find the orientation where the arrow flies cleanest. Most archers skip this step. It's worth 20 minutes for the consistency gain. See the nock tuning post.
Step 11: Walk-Back Tune
Shoot at 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 yards at the same aim point. Arrows should land in a vertical line. See the walk-back post.
Drift left or right = rest needs micro-adjustment. Vertical = you're done with horizontal.
Step 12: Broadhead Tune
Last step. Mount a broadhead. Shoot field point and broadhead at 30, 40, 50 yards. They should impact together.
If broadhead impacts left of field point (RH): rest needs to move toward broadhead by 1/64". If broadhead is high or low: nock point.
If field point and broadhead don't agree at 50 yards after all of the above, your tune isn't done. See the broadhead-vs-field-point post. The cause is almost always upstream — spine, cam lean, or grip.
What Breaks When You Skip Steps
- Skip pre-flight: You're tuning a broken bow. No amount of work fixes it.
- Skip grip: Every measurement varies by shot. Tune drifts session to session.
- Skip cam timing: Persistent tail-high tear. No fix at the rest.
- Skip center shot: Walk-back will never line up. You'll chase horizontal forever.
- Skip nock point: Vertical scatter in groups. Sight pin adjustments mask it.
- Skip bareshafts: Paper looks fine, broadheads fail at 40.
- Skip walk-back: Field point is on, broadheads scatter at distance.
- Skip broadhead tune: You'll find out on the hunt. The animal pays.
How Long This Takes
First time through: 3-5 hours over a couple sessions. After you've done it once, 1-2 hours.
It is slower than "shoot paper, move rest, done." It's also the reason your bow shoots field points and broadheads to the same point at 60 yards in cold weather. Worth the time.
The Forge Side
The whole point of The Forge is this sequence. You enter your bow and arrow setup, and The Forge walks you through each step in order. It tells you the spec to hit, flags what's off, and tells you what to adjust. No memorization. No skipping steps. The order is enforced.
If you want the bench experience without the bench, that's what The Forge is for.
The Discipline
Most archers don't fail at tuning. They fail at order. Tune in sequence. Trust the process. Your bow will reward you with broadheads that fly like field points and groups that hold at 60.