How to Paper Tune a Compound Bow (and Why Most People Do It Backwards)

Paper tuning gets treated like the answer. It's not. It's the test.

Walk into any pro shop and you'll see somebody chasing a tear by sliding their rest around. They'll hit a bullet hole eventually. Then their broadheads still won't fly. Because they tuned around a problem instead of fixing it.

Paper is the verification step. Cam timing first. Rest center shot second. Then paper checks your work.

What Paper Tuning Actually Does

You shoot through a sheet of paper at six to eight feet. The arrow leaves a tear. The tear tells you what the back of the arrow is doing relative to the front. That's it. It's a fletching-clearance and arrow-flight diagnostic, not a magic wand.

A bullet hole means the arrow is leaving the bow straight. A tail-right tear means the back of the arrow is kicking right. That can be the rest. It can also be cam lean, cam timing, grip torque, or a weak spine. Sliding the rest hides three of those.

Do These First. In This Order.

Before paper, you do the pre-flight:

  • Cam timing. Both cams hitting the wall at the same instant. See the Field Notes post on cam timing for how to check it without a draw board.
  • Tiller and ATA. Match spec. Off-spec ATA means cam lean. Cam lean means a left/right tear that the rest can't fix.
  • Grip. Same hand position every shot. A torqued grip throws every other variable into noise.
  • Center shot. Set the rest so the arrow points down the riser. Use a laser or a bow square. This is your starting point.
  • Nock height. 1/8" to 1/4" high of square on most rigs. Confirm with bareshafts later.

Now you shoot paper.

Reading the Tear

The nock end of the arrow is what's tearing the paper. So a tail-high tear means the nock is high coming out. Tail-left means the nock is kicking left. The fix follows the cause, not the symptom.

  • Tail high. Lower nocking point or raise rest. Usually nocking point.
  • Tail low. Raise nocking point. Rare on a compound that's set up right.
  • Tail left (RH shooter). Could be weak spine, cam lean, grip torque, or rest position. Check spine and cam lean first.
  • Tail right (RH shooter). Stiff spine, opposite cam lean, or rest needs to move right. Check spine first.

For the full pattern decoder, see the paper tear patterns post.

Why Most People Tune Backwards

They shoot paper cold. They see a left tear. They move the rest right. Bullet hole. Done.

Then they shoot a broadhead at 40 and it's six inches off the field point. Because the underlying problem was a cam lean or a weak spine, and the rest move only masked the tear at six feet. Out at distance, the arrow is still leaving the bow with energy going sideways. The broadhead amplifies it. The field point hides it.

This is the entire reason for the broadhead-vs-field-point post. A rest-tuned bow looks fine on paper and fails on the target.

The Verification Loop

After paper, you bareshaft tune at 20 yards. Then you walk-back tune. Then you broadhead tune. Each step confirms the last. If bareshafts and fletched arrows hit together at 20 and your walk-back is straight, your bow is tuned. Paper was just the first checkpoint.

The Forge handles this sequence for you. You enter your setup and it walks you through the order, flags what's likely wrong from the tear pattern, and tells you what to actually adjust. No more guessing whether a left tear means weak spine or cam lean. The software knows your spine math.

The One Rule

If paper tells you to move the rest more than 1/16", something else is wrong. Find it. Don't chase it with the rest.