Compound Bow Tuning Order of Operations — The Complete Sequence

Tune in the wrong order and you'll chase your tail forever. Every step in compound bow tuning depends on the one before it being locked. Skip ahead and your paper tear changes every time you adjust the rest because the cams are still drifting.

This is the canonical 11-step sequence Sparrow Expeditions' Bow Tuning Wizard uses — cross-checked against Easton, Hamskea, GoHunt, and Lancaster Archery references.

The 11-step sequence

1. Pre-flight & bow specs

Verify the bow matches manufacturer spec sheet (draw weight, draw length, axle-to-axle, brace height). New strings need ~100 arrows to settle before tuning, otherwise everything drifts in a week.

2. Cam timing & sync

Both cams must hit their draw stops at the same moment. Off-timing creates left/right paper tears no amount of rest adjustment will fix. Do this FIRST or every later step lies.

3. Tiller

Measure top vs bottom limb-to-string distance. Most modern compounds spec zero tiller (matched) — ±1/8" is normal.

4. Center shot

Mount the rest with the arrow tip 13/16" from the riser (typical Berger-hole spec). This is the STARTING point that paper tune micro-adjusts from.

5. Nocking point + D-loop

Nock 1/8" above square (nock-high). D-loop with 1/16-1/8" gap above and below the nock — snug but not pinching.

6. Arrow rest setup

Install limb-driven or cable-driven rest. Verify launcher supports the arrow for 50-70% of the power stroke.

7. Paper tune

Fletched arrow through butcher paper at 6-8 ft. Bullet hole = good. Read tear direction, apply right adjustment, iterate. Always vertical before horizontal.

8. Bareshaft

Unfletched arrow alongside fletched. Same hole = dynamic tune is dialed. Different hole = use POI chart to fix.

9. Walk-back

Shoot at 20, 40, 50, 60 yards using the 20-yd pin. All hits should fall on one vertical line. Drift L/R = micro-adjust rest.

10. Broadhead group

Fixed-blade BH vs field point at 30-40 yd. Same group = bow is fully hunting-tuned.

11. Final report

Save your tune as a baseline. Print and keep with the bow. When something drifts next season you'll know what changed.

Why this exact order?

Each step's measurement depends on prior steps being stable. Paper tune can't converge if cams aren't synced because the tear pattern changes each shot. Walk-back can't pass if center shot is off because rest position is what walk-back tests. Skip ahead and you'll re-do everything.

Common short-circuits

• "I already paper tuned, no need to walk-back" — wrong. Paper tune verifies the bow launches square; walk-back verifies the rest is at the right L/R position at distance.
• "I'll tune broadheads first" — you can't see the underlying issues. Fletching masks too much. Always end with broadheads.
• "My pro shop tuned it last year, it's fine" — strings creep ~1/8" per 500 shots. After 1500 shots or a season, re-tune from step 2 (cam timing) forward.

The Sparrow Tuning Wizard

Our guided 11-step wizard walks through every measurement with live spec comparison against your bow's manufacturer chart. Bow-specific adjustment instructions for 64+ flagship bows. Hunter + Pro tiers.