My buddy Reece keeps a sheet of pegboard hanging in his garage. Not for tools. He shoots through it.
First time I saw it I figured he'd lost a few screws along with the wrenches. Then he handed me his Hoyt, pointed at a hole about the size of a pencil eraser, and said "ten yards, that hole, field point." I put one through it clean. Then he had me shoot a broadhead through the same hole. It passed too. "Congratulations," he said. "Your bow's tuned. Took you thirty seconds."
He's not wrong. The pegboard is the most honest, fastest tune check I know of, and almost nobody does it.
What the board actually tells you
Paper tuning gives you a direction. You read the tear, you chase the nock left or right, up or down. Useful, but a paper tear happens at four feet. Most arrows look fine at four feet. The problems show up downrange, once a fishtail or a porpoise has had room to grow.
The pegboard is pass/fail at distance. A standard sheet has quarter-inch holes on one-inch centers. An arrow that's flying straight and clearing your rest cleanly will thread a quarter-inch hole at ten or twelve yards. An arrow that's wagging its tail, kicking, or clipping a vane on the launcher will not. It'll catch the edge of the hole or smack the board, and you'll see exactly where.
That's it. No interpretation. The arrow either goes through or it doesn't. A bullet hole in paper can lie to you. A clean pass through a hole you aimed at can't.
The five minutes
Go buy a sheet of quarter-inch pegboard. Home Depot, twelve bucks, the brown perforated hardboard people hang pliers on. Hang it in front of your target bag so a miss doesn't blow through into the wall. Pick a hole at shoulder height and mark it with a Sharpie circle so you can find it again.
Back up to ten or twelve yards. Aim at the hole. Shoot a fletched field point. If it passes clean, your fletched arrow is flying straight and clearing the rest at that distance. Good start.
Now the part that matters. Shoot a broadhead through the same hole. Same hole, not a new one. If your broadhead passes clean through the spot your field point just went through, your heads track with your points and your bow is hunting-ready. That is the entire game. Everything else we argue about online is downstream of that one test.
If you've got time, keep backing up. Twenty. Thirty. The farther out you can pass a broadhead clean through the same hole, the more honest your tune is. I've watched guys who swore their bow was "dialed" clip the board at twenty with a fixed head. Their groups looked fine on a dot. The board doesn't care how your groups look.
When it clips
A clip is information, not a failure. Read where the arrow caught.
Check the rest first. Pull the arrow and look for a smear of wax or a chewed vane edge. That's contact. Your fletching is kicking the launcher on the way out, usually a clearance or a cam-timing thing, and no amount of windage will fix it. I've seen a single AAE Max Stealth vane shaved flat on one side do this and the shooter never noticed until the board called it out.
If the vanes are clean but the arrow still won't thread the hole, you've got a flight problem, not a contact problem. The nock's wagging. That's your center shot, your timing, or your spine, and it sends you back to the rest and the draw board. If you've never nock-tuned, that's the cheapest next move and it costs you twenty minutes.
One honest admission: a quartering crosswind in the garage doorway will throw a light arrow enough to clip. Shoot with the door shut. Don't blame your tune for a draft.
The reason I love this test is that it kills the broadhead-versus-field-point argument before it starts. People spend a season chasing why their Sevr flies six inches off their field point at forty. Half the time the answer was visible at ten yards through a piece of hardboard, and they never looked.
Before you back up to the board, make sure the arrow you're shooting is actually spined right for your setup — a stiff or weak shaft will fight you the whole way and no rest adjustment saves it. Plug your bow and shaft into the spine and tune tools at The Forge, get the arrow right on paper first, then go prove it through the pegboard. Five minutes. One sheet of hardboard. Then you'll actually know.